Wednesday, July 23, 2014

DAY 46 JULY 10 KOLUT, SERBIA

CEMETERY VISIT

The Orthodox, particularly, the Serbs have a specific way of having a funeral,  burying and visiting a cemetery.  No cremation for us.   Down the road from Dushan's house is the new and improved cemetery.  Dush is quite proud of the improvements since commie days....the little chapel is a new addition.


lots of crosses ...



Former star -once a communist or communist era?

This is Desa's son and husbands grave...no cross?

Dushan marches me around to count the crosses in the new section...

Elaborate headstones are common in Serbia...quite pricey for people with a small income.  A message telling us how important it is to honor the dead...

This young man died in a crash...his parents honored him, his soccer playing, his car etc...


more Meric....
this one caught Bubs eye...military man proud of his metals...


And the saddest grave to visit was Dushan's wife's, Mariana.  She died 4 years ago.  They tell me his heart has been filled with sorrow ever since.  The loss of his beloved wife and mother of Milka, Milena and Stefan has been a heartbreak for all of the family.  I  am certain she was a wonderful person and is missed every day.  I prayed for her repose.  May her memory be eternal!


Dushan's sister, Miriana...what a wonderful, kind and loving person and a great cook too!  She works as a border guard, like her cousins....all in the family from the old commie days...soon to retire.  This very special lady made a huge imprint on Boca's heart.

And speaking of Amen, she was baptized as an adult.  With her new found freedom she choose God...


During the commie regime, many had to hide their beliefs or just didn't believe...what a life they have lead or should I say followed.  We are so happy to know she knows and loves God like her ancestors and American cousins do too!


Nina and Milos show us the site for the new Orthodox Church to be built one day in Kolut...more of Boca-Dushanka's good picture taking...oy.


TITOS HUNTING LODGE
Pedrag Meric, another cousin of course, heard that Bubs was a hunter so a trip to the former hunting property of Tito was a must see....


Bubs got a few decorating ideas as well...


More excellent camera shots from Dushanka...oy...Pedrag gave Bubs a book explaining all about the property and the park ranger type job he does to keep the forest fresh...and invited Bubs back to hunt some deer, boars and birds...you bet.


And speaking of Tito.....So Mr. Tito, did you make a mess and now these folks have to live in it?  He is still revered by many ("we miss the old days under Tito, we did have repression but at least there was no war").  Sure, years later the economy is in decline and the recent national violence has made fiction out of Tito's favorite slogan..."Brotherhood and Unity".  So what is his legacy, dear cousins?  More on that in a minute...

Better that Boca-Dushanka should have a piece of watermelon than another cevap sausage...remarked Jelena.


Family Tree...Fathers and Forefathers
After WWII, Kolut was settled by 436 families from Lika and  Gorski Kodar.  Ah, now I am catching on to being related to most of the hood- all 1,702 of them!  Yes, all 4 of Boca- Dushanka's grandparents were born in Lika.

Desa, an aunt... is the niece of my grandfather and cousin to my Mom.  Desa is 82.  Her husband, Bude, died in 2006.  My Mom was very fond of him and her.  Remember, we spent some great time with her son, Vladimir, and his new grand baby a day ago.  Sadly, she lost her other son, Marko, when he was 37 in 1993.  We visited his grave site and prayed for him as well.   He had 2 daughters, Tania (living in NYC or Chicago) and  Tiana (going to college in Novi Sad).  Desa doesn't hear from them very often, adding more to her heart break.  How does that happen in families??

Boca- Dushanka anointed our Nina,  to step in as a Baba lover and hugger.  Nina took the challenge.
Dushan became quite fond of Bubba-Dushan so he found a Kolut fixer upper for him....promising Bubs he could get his buddies to help out with the renovation- never mind any permits....before hunting season starts, of course.


So long Serbia...
3 religions over the centuries coming together, then apart.  Is the search for a utopia now a pipe-dream?  The disintegration of the former Yugoslavia is evident and in some ways heartbreaking.  I liked seeing the freedom from no communism but the after math has been an implosion for these people.

I wonder what happened after the beautiful Sarajevo Olympics in 1984?  Domes, crosses, synagogues and minarets- epitomizing the Olympic ideal of peace and cooperation in the world?  It was thought by some, 20 plus years ago, that if allowed, with a multiparty system- the people would get several new ethnic and religious parties without any political or economic agenda and issues, except old hatred for one another and their leaders would cry for partitions and succession.  Pretty much how it played out...not much on the united we stand and divided we fall mantra.

 I have had the opportunity, these past couple of weeks, to get a glimpse of understanding the ways Serbs see themselves.  While it was still only a moment in time, being taken in by cousins made the experience rich and deep.  The proud, strong-willed, brave and generous people are my people, my family.  I suppose you could throw in a little paranoid/superstitious and self-pitying.  Given their history it is explainable.  What I don't want to see is the depression or resignation to life at hand.  My strongly individualistic family- with a enormous love for home, family and nation I thank you for sharing your lives, hearts and treasures.  I love that you are in touch with your warrior roots and now my husband can understand me, after-all, we are blood

.

Until we see each other again- with love and profound thanks "Dushanka and Dushan".


Oh, and one more thing...I would love you to meet all your cousins in America....ha ha.  After-all this is a Griswold story...








AND BOCA AND BUBBA CONTINUE TO DISCOVER THE WORLD and  DISCOVER OURSELVES.