Sunday, July 20, 2014

DAY 43 JULY 7 FRUSHKA GORA, NOVI SAD, ON THE WAY TO KOLUT, SERBIA

Follow up to the surprise cousin visit during the river cruise stop in Novi Sad, Serbia ensues. Dushan, one of my cousins- his father and my mother were first cousins on my grandfathers side of family- picks us up in Golub to drive us to his home in Kolut.  Dush is retired- a former border guard as well as "former"commie.  But with fall of communism and the opening of his country, he found God, much like his ancestors did.  Not to say God was lost, maybe just missing for many during those "socialist" years. I am sure his Aunt Mitzie (my Mom) helped moved that finding idea right along.  No pressure there, right? Dushan has many fond memories of Chris and Mitzie visiting and many pictures to go with them.  He has an action packed agenda for our visit to his village of Kolut.  Kolut?  My mother did it, so must I.  I have visions of sleeping in a barn...but first we we spend the day touring and talking...well more or less.  Serblish?  




When we can't get our point across we talk louder and start waving our arms. Bubba shakes his head and chuckles and Pleep loves it.

Next stop....MONASTERIES OF FRUSHKA GORA


In the period between the 16th and 18th centuries a total of 35 monasteries were built in these hills.  Today just 17 remain.  The monasteries were founded during the period of wars and migrations caused by Turkish occupations further south.  They became vital communities that ensured that Serbian identity and Orthodox religion would survive through these times.  

Veliki Remeta


A place for pilgrims today...that would be Dush and Bubs, right?

In order not to give Bubba "monastery fatigue" Dushan suggested that we only stop by 2 for a closer look. "Two is plenty for Bubba".   You know Boca wanted to see all 17 and throw in a few ruins for good measure...pace yourself my cousin insisted.  Bubs thanked him profusely and shared with him that Boca doesn't know what pace means.


Veliki is one of the most visited monasteries, and we can see why...said to have been built in before 1509.


The monastery was built entirely of bricks which was unusual for this time period.   After the fall of communism, the Serbian government gave back over 10,000 hectors to the church so the various monasteries were opened for business, meaning prayer and a little bit of vino,

 Most of the frescoes were destroyed during WWII, but have brilliantly been refreshed...much like Boca needs to be.


 The dome, the dome, the dome...

 Such Serbian "style" iconography- loud and colorful.


One of Bubs favorites, the last supper....


This delightful young man offered to give us a bit of a tour and introduce us to the head Monk-Priest and always an offer of a schlivo...now Bubs understands why it is a religious requirement.


Dushan hopes that Pleep will behave in front of the priest.  Ah, yes Father, my crazy cousin from America travels with a monkey.


What has Bub's attention?


Of course, a Putin clock.

Next monastery, Krusedol
Founded in the early 16th century, by Durad Brankovic, who ruled Serbia for about 10 years, before becoming an archbishop.

Quite a beautiful grounds...the church also contains the remains of many members of the Brankovic family, as well as King Milan Obrenovic (died 1901).
My cousin likes being connected...

Destroyed and reconstructed many times- welcome to Serbia.  And don't forget the requisite use of it by the Ustase during WWII- used as a prison, many Partisans were tortured and murdered here.  This beautiful property shines today.

Frushka Gora is also known for it's National Park.  Although this modest mountain range is not the Alps, it is still picturesque.    Quite a few vineyards- to go with the monasteries.  Pleep said it makes for a better  "communion" with nature.   Frushka is endowed with the Holy Spirit and plenty of tradition and recommended for all to visit.  Not only religious but a very spiritual place.  Next trip back to Serbia must see the other 15 monasteries.  Did I hear Bubs mumble Oy Vay?

 We push on to Novi Sad to meet up with another cousin, (grandfathers side) Stevisa, at beer o'thirty.  After much hugging and kissing, we reminisced about his parents, my parents and of course today's situation in Serbia.  His father "Dushan" was a Communist Military Career guy and was the spitting image of my Grandfather.  I clearly remember visiting their apartment (1972) with the huge Tito portrait on the wall-Uncle Dushan's version of "God".  Of course Uncle Dushan's trip to America (a la Mitzie/Chris and American Airlines) and some Serbian style prodding from my Mom, helped his eyes open up and he also came to believe in God.  I wonder if he ever took that billboard size picture of Tito down?

  My cousin Stevisa, brought along his home made wine as a gift for us...

How did he make this stuff  Bubs??

Whewwwwwww, I know this must also double as fuel for the car....ah...Boca named it Vino de Benzene.


  Bubs suggested that Boca sip from the glass, as chugging might result in esophageal  issues.  You've got that right Bubs.  Burn Baby Burn!


Onward to Kolut....and more of the Merich clan.