DAY 25 JUNE 19 VIENNA, AUSTRIA

WILKOMEN TO VIENNA!
Along with Germany and Denmark, Austria is among the economically healthy countries in the EU.  And boy does it show in the capital,  Vienna.  By the middle of the 12th century, Vienna had become an important center of German civilization in Eastern Europe.




IT WASN'T BAD AT ALL
It's funny thing about cities:  Some have brief, bright moments of cultural and political dominance, decades- or centuries-long spells when they seem the center of their particular nation, region or empire...only later fall into obscurity and disrepair, never to regain their former glory.  And some cities, though they may pass through many rulers, manage to remain relevant and even coveted for not just centuries but millennia.  Vienna is, definitely, a member of this exclusive club.

Of course the Romans were here but it took the arrival, in 1276, of those busily intermarrying, hyper-ambitious Hapsburgs (who remained in power until 1918!!) to make the city what it is:  a pace that combines the niceties and graces of court life- which you can see in everything from its love of pastry to the MANY palaces that decorate the Old Town.  This city has given birth to, housed, schooled, or witnessed performances by more artists, musicians, thinkers and writers per capita than any other European city its size (says them).

Vienna which has just 1.7 million folks living here is not only a seat to royal dynasty but also to the United Nations departments and a number of other international organizations,

Although the Hapsburgs may be gone, their sense of self--possession remains...

It was under the 68 year reign of Emperor Franz Joseph (1830-1916) that engineering technology advance to the point that the mighty Danube could be re-routed, sparing the Imperial City the constant flooding that had  plagued it for centuries.  We buzz over to the medieval city and outskirts and check out the
Schonbrunn Palace- the summer palace of the Hapsborgs of course!  This 1,441 room Rococo extravaganza is one of the most important cultural monuments in the country.  And Bubs do you know what Schonbrunn means?  Beautiful spring.  Nice handle.  And by the way what is an "orangery"?




Oh yeah I remember being here with Henry K in the 70's.....looks like they haven't done much with the place Boca.











The palace and gardens illustrate the tastes, interests and aspirations of successive Hapsburg monarchs...they sure knew how to collect and spend those marks alright.











Boca thinks she sees some of her friends from Dubai...she'd recognize those Chanel sneakers anywhere...

Following the downfall of the monarchy in 1918 (remember that Serb who shot the old Emperor in  Sarajevo) the newly founded Austrian Republic became the owner of  Schonbrunn Palace and preserved it as a museum.  And after WWII and during the allied Occupation of Austria (1945-1955) the Palace provided offices for the British Delegation....surprised they didn't snatch it up ....as we learned on the World Tour last  year, those Brits so enjoyed the land grab game in the day....and since the 1960's has become a major tourist attraction in Vienna.  We get that full on experience today- packed packed packed with many Asians...Japanese, Koreans, Chinese- hey I thought someone was trying to teach them some tourist manners?  Pleep had a little elbow action and some cutting in line dust ups....

Lingering over coffee at the cafes is a national pastime.  Bubba enjoyed his java at Sig Freud's favorite spot.  Hoping the ghost of Freud might rub off on Boca.  Not so much.  She took to the local brewskies...then hit up one of the many and fantastic museums.  Yes, I understand why Vienna ranks so highly on surveys such as "Worlds Most Livable City" and "World's Best Quality of Life".  Home to a great number of world-class museums, royal apartments, state offices, noble palaces, and the world famous Lipizzaner stallions.  Today, the medieval city center is a UNESCO WORLD HERITAGE SITE (2001).

Albertina, Ringstrasse, the Opera House, Parliament and City Hall- lots to see around magnificent Vienna...lucky again with the weather.

And today is a religious holiday-  Corpus Christi?  about the wafer??



St. Stephan's Cathedral- the gem stone of the city.  Dating from the 14th century is the city's oldest landmark.  And I am betting ol'Boca wants to go in here...




The Cathedral is the mother church of the Roman Catholic Archdiocese of Vienna and known for the colorful roof tiles too.

The current Romanesque and Gothic form of the Cathedral was initiated  by Duke Rudolf IV (1339-1365) and stands on the ruins of two earlier churches.  You know what they say about real estate...location, location, location.

Many important events have been held here...including mobs of tourists today.



This Church has undergone renovation and expansion century after century and during WWII St. Stephen's was saved from intentional destruction at the hands of retreating German forces in spite of orders to "fire a hundred shells and leave it in just debris and ashes".  Although it did suffer some damage from local fires started by civilian looters when the Russian troops entered the city.  Boca surely enjoyed this prayer chapel honoring one of her favorites...MOTHER THERESA.

The Cathedral is filled with tombs, catacombs and crypts .  Lots of saint's relics preserved here.  The construction of Emperor Fredrick's tomb took 45 years!  Pleeps favorite part of the tour were the catacombs...over 11,000 persons buried down there!

Ok enough of the church...how about this modern stuck in the middle of all this Dynasty Architecture?











Love the way they Viennese encourage water drinking...Pleep liked the Wasser fountains so much he took several showers that day....the locals didn't appreciate his fur drying technique as he would shake it until  air dried...




















And the art work goes on and on and on...this is the place we are going to dinner tonight...










The Spanish Riding School- and again those Hapsburgs really knew how to live it up.  Quite the horse "barn" for the royals.  Today it continues on as the Spanish Riding school and home of the majestic Lipizzaner horses.








A gorgeous animal.  Pleep begged for a lesson, but no time.  Next visit, Pleep.












Pleep insisted on a carriage ride...wanting to feel a little royal himself.














 And requested that Bubs get a plate of the Happy Noodles which would be needed for the future Church visits that would be inevitable.










Palais Pallavicini

On the ride over, big visit by the President of Turkey.  Bubba was sure glad those days were over for him- making sure all is well for those types of events- been there done that Pleep.  It's a young guys game but I sure do like getting together every year at our annual SS Reunion.  This year is Las Vegas...in September.  September?  Geeeeeeeze,  why don't they pick a warmer month?




On the the Palais....The interior rooms are richly gilded and decorated with stucco, crystal mirrors and more...  Originally a convent it was called the "Queens Monastery" before the make over.  The monastery was close and the Emperor remodeled to a Palais-in the Neoclassic  style and so 1784.







Magical Imperial Vienna.  We enjoy an evening at the Palace of fine food (well it was banquet so don't expect a 5 star Bubs), music, singing and ballet.



Quite lovely menu...

and a boat load of chandeliers light up the place....Pleep get the heck down from there!!!











Our opera singer got a kick out of Pleep as he kept monkey dancing while she sang...and she reminded him to do his best to behave as former guests, Ludwig van Beethoven and Franz Schubert were always gentlemen while here.  Enough said, little monkey.  Square up!

DAY 24 JUNE 18 MELK, AUSTRIA

During the grand old Habsburg days, Austria was Europe's most powerful empire.  It's royalty built a giant kingdom of more than 60 million people by making love not war....having lots of children and marrying them into the other royal houses of Europe.  The country still clings to its elegant past and I can see why.  The waltz is still the rage as music has been a key part of it's heritage- Haydn, Mozart, Beethoven.  They are not German-although most speak German. At the end of WWI,  Austria adopted and used the name the republic of  German-Austrian in an attempt for union with Germany.    This lasted until the end of WWII in 1945, after which Germany was occupied by the allies and Austria's former democratic constitution was restored.  And I love this- the Austrian Parliament created the Declaration of Neutrality which declared that the Second Austrian Republic would become permanently neutral.  Today, Austria is a parliamentary representative democracy composed of 9 federal states.

Austria is more mellow and relaxed compared to Deutschland.  It joined the EU in 1995 and the Euro currency in 1999.

Unlike Germany, its industrious neighbor to the northwest, Austria is content to offer a good living and bask in its grandest empires.  8.5 million Austrians- and the Parliament is located in Vienna, the country's largest city and capital.  We will be heading over there next....

Melk

Melk is a city along the Danube with a population of 5,257.  So why are we stopping here? asked Pleep.  Because it is best known as the site of  a massive baroque Benedictine monastery named Melk Abbey.  We visited the largest abbey in Austria and certainly the largest Pleep has ever seen.  He also asked to we have to "Pay to Pray?

Originally a palace, and it shows.  As they say, "If it ain't Baroque don't fix it!"  Talk about over the top- way to go you Benedictine Monks.  The Abbey contains the tome of Saint Coloman and the remains of several members of the House of Baenmberg- Austria's first ruling dynasty.


This impressive abbey was built between 1702 and 1736- and check out those frescos.  The church has an astonishing number of decorative windows and richly embellished with marble.

How about the impressive library (rising 2 stories) with countless medieval manuscripts...Pleep so enjoyed strolling around with the black robed monks and immensely liked climbing the sliding library ladder, rolling it round and round the room till be told by one of the lady door guides "ENOUGH PLEEP!  GET DOWN OFF THE LADDER!!"




So off to Church we go....Due to it's fame and academic stature, Melk managed to escape dissolution under Emperor Joseph II during the time when many other abbeys were seized and dissolved.  When the Nazi's stepped in they took it over but after WWII it was returned to the order and now operates a school- for nearly 900 pupils- boys and girls.  Pleep was bummed that school was out for summer so  dragged along with Bubs to see the very heralded Church...and it did not disappoint.















For over 900 years the monks have continued in the tradition of St. Benedict without interruption in the fields of parish life- 23 parishes belong to the monastery.  Bubs, is that Pleep up there by the organ?













  Since it's beginnings, Melk has been an important intellectual and spiritual center of the country.  And we can see the Prince-Bishop-Friends of Monks did a heck of a job erecting some church.  Wow to the marble!








Hows that for a little opulence?




and lets add a little more marble.  Pleep asked if we could be Catholic for the day?

 

 and why not a decent pipe organ?

And I thought I heard him pray...Dear Lord,  How many churches can one man visit?





















and how'bout those Box Seats Bubs?

This magnificent building has been undergoing extensive restoration work since 1978.







Hey Bubba, is that Pleep helping them mix cement??

Oh my, he's helping the gal on the scaffolding....she insisted that he continue on as her most capable assistant.  OY.  Better than running up the bar tab?

and what a view from the terrace.  Yes it's good to live at the Abbey.

Better get Boca out of here before she gets some dddddecorating ideas...

Motorized Monk bikes?

I came to Casablanca for the waters....but a cold beer will do.  Can I get a Hail Mary?

DAY 23 JUNE 17 PASSAU, GERMANY

Passau (population 50,000 or so) is located right on the border of Austria and overlooked by wooded heights.  Three rivers come together in Passau-the Inn, Liz and Danube.  Pleep is looking forward to hanging with some of the university students-as the school is renowned for Law and beer drinking.









 This place has survived endless floods and we saw the most recent markings ...yes flood 2013 water came up over the Danube, flooding many of the local buildings. Come on Bubs, let's hit these cobble stones.







 Then candidate Merkal, offered to give them 80% of the cost to repair the flood damage if she won her race?  Sound familiar???












  Bub points out the various high water flood marks..

 Thank you Ms Merkal new Chancellor of Germany...money to fix everything.  How's that EU bail out working for you?









More strolling the narrow cobbled streets of the city and meandering along its river path, we enjoy this historic town.  Perched high above the river bank is the fortress-cum- palace built by Passaus's powerful prince-bishops in the 13th century.  They liked to keep an eye on the unruly citizenry below I suppose.

There is a church tax for the believers.  They are taxed 9% or they must stand in front of the town and say they are nonbelievers.  They still pass the basket but no tithing.  I wonder what percentage of the people pay the 9%?  Is that where the word "schmuck" comes from?  Nah, it comes from schmuckwerstatt meaning" buy your wife whatever she ,wants....it leads to a good life".  Hmm those Germans so bright and so right.

And look Bubba, I could even stop by for a little Sigmund Freud Style Therapy.  Did I hear him mutter "for the love of God, yes please!"?










.CATHEDRAL OF ST. STEPHEN.
Located on the highest point of the peninsula, the current structure, built in the high Baroque style of 1668.  Dedicated to St. Stephen it is the seat of the Catholic Bishop of Passau.

The Cathedral is quite breathtaking with its heavenly white ornamentation and Italian frescoes, but the most impressive feature is the immense pipe-organ, Europe's largest with 17,388 pipes!

As I walked into the Cathedral for our concert.  I literally gasped.  You know Boca can't visit too many churches Bubs is quicker to say enough.  

 The organ was phenomenal and hearing it raised the hair on my arms.  Bravisimo!

How's that for a royal pulpit?












And at the side of the church the men were cutting and trimming "trees" for the special religious holiday?  Hey, Bubs, that would be...????

The Patron Saint of Green Leaves?

The town is a stop for all the river cruises and I can see why.  Provincial but oh that church-so over the top.  Worth the visit for sure.  And Bubs finally found the Pleep....at the Wildman Hotel.











 Never mind the beer bill.  Like his big brother Nick, he is very generous with Pop's dough.  Must be in the DNA...








AUF WIEDERSEHEN!   BEAUTIFUL GERMANY.  AS GORGEOUS AND LOVELY AS EVER AND WHAT A GREAT WAY TO SEE IT FROM THE RHINE.  THANK YOU FOR A MARVELOUS VISIT TO YOUR INTERESTING AND EFFICIENT AND OH SO CLEAN COUNTRY.  UNTIL THE NEXT VISIT- PROST!